Saving Delaminated MCNs From Landfill

OK so if you've ever bought second hand cloth nappies, more than likely you've had at least one or two completely delaminate in the wash. And if you're like me, you've probably been loathe to just throw them out because it seems like such a waste! But they're more or less useless without their water resistance right!?

Well, I'm here to tell you there is a way - three of them, in fact - to revive those nappy shells and continue using them more are less as usual!

Method 1: Lanolising

This was the first method I tried when, disappointingly, I had about 10 nappies that I'd bought second hand, all completely delaminate in their sanitising wash before my baby was even born! It seemed such a waste to have to throw them away, so I hung onto them, and as time went on, I started digging for ways to make them usable again. I gradually added to that pile of delaminated nappies as I acquired some Op shop nappies that lasted for a couple of weeks of use before flying to pieces on me too, so I was more determined than ever to get some kind of value for money out of these shells!

Lanolising is the method that is used for wool covers to make them water resistant/moisture wicking - wool can hold up to 30% of its weight in moisture, wicking excess urine from the nappy, while the lanolin repels moisture, causing evaporation. Wool covers can be aired between uses and don't need to be washed until they start to smell - so with that in mind, I started by "lanolising" a few of my delmainated pocket nappy shells (with the idea that the microfleece inner may hold the lanolin and work similarly to a wool cover), and using them as covers over folded Terry flats to see what would happen!

What happened was I had a usable nappy shell again! I was typically able to get about 3 uses out of a shell before I decided it needed a wash, and I had no trouble with leaks, although it's worth noting that a cotton Terry nappy seems to distribute the moisture more evenly than a microfibre insert, for example. I've since switched to laying my inserts into the nappy shell with a microfleece stay dry layer on top, and just using it as a normal MCN. And I no longer bother to air them between uses, I just wash with my usual pre and main wash routine - and I'm still getting multiple uses before needing to relanolise!

I "test" my waterproof shells by running a small amount of water into them (after being treated and dried) and seeing what happens. When freshly lanolised, for example, the puddle sits neatly in the curve of the nappy and doesn't leak through! After a couple of washes, drips may appear after 30seconds or so - and I tend to give them another use then. Once I run water into them and it just runs straight through, it's time to redo the water proofing method! For lanolin, depending on the type of shell, I get at least 3-4 uses, sometimes more!

With that in mind the cost breakdown for the lanolising method looks like this: I purchase pure lanolin through my friends small business, The Peeping Sheep. 120ml costs $35, which is roughly 20 batches of 6 nappies per batch. $1.75 per batch, which is $0.29 per nappy... 9c per wear if you get three wears out of it! Still pretty cheap compared to disposables!

I find lanolising works best on pocket nappies that have a "fluffy" microfleece layer - more surface area for the lanolin to cling to. The microsuede type pocket nappies do work as well, initially, but it washes out faster meaning you're redoing them more often. If your nappies don't have a pocket and are just the PUL outer that you lay in inserts, I would suggest to keep reading as the other methods will be more effective. Lanolising also has the benefit of being the most low tox of the three options, so if you're considering giving it a go, here's how I do it:

Step 1: grab six pocket nappies and turn them inside out.

Step 2: combine 1 heaped tsp of lanolin with a small drop of dish soap in a mug of boiling water until dissolved.

Step 3: add the mug of emulsified lanolin to 1-2L of water in a bucket. The water should turn cloudy, indicating that the lanolin is evenly emulsified throughout the water.

Step 4: add your inside out nappies, squeezing and stirring to ensure they're all thoroughly soaked. There should be enough water to not quite cover the shells - if needed, run a bit more water into the bucket and stir some more.

Step 5: leave them for 12hours or overnight, turning them over in the water once or twice to ensure they're all getting an even soaking.

Step 6: squeeze out excess water and lay flat to dry (you can hang them if you want but I choose to lay flat because I don't want the extra water weight stretching the elastics unnecessarily. You could also spin them in the washing machine to remove excess water).

Step 7: turn them right side out and use as a normal nappy shell, either over a folded flat nappy or with shells laid in and a stay dry liner to protect bubs skin from sitting against wet inserts.

Note: preliminary testing suggests that drying in a tumble dryer after each main wash may extend the longevity of the water resistance achieved by the lanolising method.

Method 2: Granger's 2 in 1 wash + repel clothing water proofer

I gave this method a try when, during my research, I came across a product marketed for resealing delaminated nappies by adding it to the washing machine with the damaged shells. The product's, which is no longer on the market, description claimed that MCNs come with a coating on the OUTSIDE of the nappy that adds to the waterproofing of the plastic layer on the INSIDE. I was a little sceptical of their claim, however it planted a seed in my mind about products that could make fabrics water resistant - after all, outdoor clothing and tents repel water!

As I went down a rabbit hole, this particular product had great reviews and seemed affordable so I decided to give it a try! I was highly sceptical when it came to testing them, and I initially tried the tea towel test - where you lay a wet tea towel inside a nappy shell and check it after 30mins to see if water has soaked through to the outside of the shell - and when this didn't yield any results after a couple of hours, I straight up put a little puddle of water in the centre of each shell and was amazed to see it just sitting there!! This has become the yardstick for my testing of nappies now and I just run a little water in the sink and hold the shell under it to see if the water puddles or pours through (test on dry nappies, not damp ones straight out of the washing machine).

The product instructions say to use 2 capfuls per jacket or large item to be waterproofed; so I guesstimated and done 11 nappy shells the first time, and given the amazing results I received, the next time I did 18 nappy shells (and yes I do have that many delaminated nappy shells I've acquired over the last two years, haha). With that in mind, I recommend about 15-20 shells for a load. (If you don't have that many delaminated nappies lying around, I think it's important to still do a full dose of Grangers, as a half dose could be too diluted in a large washing machine and produce ineffective results - but with that said, I haven't tested that theory, I've only done full doses to equivalent loads.) The nappy-specific product I originally came across in my research claimed it necessary to dry washed nappy shells in the dryer for best results, so that is what I have also done with this product, and I haven't compared line drying to dryer drying for results.

Obviously, as this is a wash in product, it affects all fabrics of the nappy shell, meaning that the pocket of the nappy shell is no longer usable and inserts have to be laid in on top of the microfleece layer in your nappies. Though I've found this one to have excellent longevity and found most of my shells to have stayed water resistant for at least 2 months of normal wear and washing, after treating with Grangers 2 in 1! The only downside I've found to this product is that there is a couple of fabrics it doesn't seem to 'stick' as well to as others. For example, nappy shells made of a shiny or silky fabric leaked again after only a couple of washes, whereas nappy shells made of a normal cotton blend or milky fabric held up exceptionally well. The price breakdown of Grangers 2 in 1 is approximately $9.31 per wash ($27.95 for a bottle), which for 15 nappies is about $0.62 per nappy or 7c per wear if you get a couple of months out of them! Another point to note is the extreme effectiveness of the Granger's product; some reviews suggested that the next load put through the washing machine also picked up a little water repellence - so following your load of treated nappies, I suggest washing some normal clothing, or even some outdoor gear or jackets that could benefit from a little water resistance. Do not follow your treated nappy wash with a load of the absorbent parts of your nappies, or towels or anything like that that you need to keep absorbent!

So with all that in mind, this is the method I followed for Granger's 2 in 1 Wash + Repel:

Step 1: collect between 15-18 delaminated nappy shells.

Step 2: add two capfuls of Grangers 2 in 1 to the detergent drawer of your washing machine, and select a warm (30-40°C) cycle that goes for at least 60mins.

Step 3: after washing, dry shells in the dryer, as the heat helps the product 'set.'

Step 4: add your newly waterproofed shells back into your cloth nappy stash!

Method 3: Silicone spray for waterproofing tents, shoes, and outdoor gear etc - I used Atsko Silicone Water Guard

The big obvious downside of this one is the chemical and microplastic content, so this option isn't for you if you're a low tox household - however, I'm in the process of trialling a lower tox option from the brand ProtectME that doesn't contain the chemicals that any aerosol version would have. With that said, it is a bit pricey, and would work out to about double the cost of the brand I originally chose, if it does the same amount of nappies and lasts for the same amount of time. I will hopefully be able to update this blog with the results in a month or two!

Compared to the other methods, I found this method to be of similar effectiveness to the Grangers 2 in 1, lasting the same several months in a normal wash routine, with the added benefit of working well on the silky and shiny fabrics that the Grangers product washed out of within a couple of wears. So depending on what type of delaminated nappies you have, this method may be a better choice if you have non pocket nappies, or microsuede pockets that don't respond as well to the lanolin; or shiny fabric shells that don't respond as well to the 2 in 1 wash. For my purposes, it was a handy way to pick up the nappies that weren't responding well to the other methods I've trialled and make them usable again!

I had originally hoped that due to the nature of using an aerosol can, I could "spot treat" the nappies and keep the pocket part of the nappy untouched and therefore still usable, but I was unable to make that happen. Even using a piece of cardboard inserted into the pocket, the moisture of the product still wicked around the edges and treated the pocket fabric of the nappy, making it water resistant too! I am hopeful that I will be able to use this method on an AIO nappy if need be, though I'll need to make sure the sewn in inserts cannot be exposed to the water proofing product as that will defeat the whole purpose of an insert for absorbency! This method has a lot of benefits, especially if you only need to do one or two nappies - one can does about 6 nappies, so it's probably the most efficient option if you don't have a big pile of shells to work with like I did. The big downside though is the chemical content, and the smell. I sprayed the nappies outside and left them airing on the line for a couple of days before I was comfortable putting them on my baby (though I would suggest you can get away with washing them before wear to further reduce the smell, as my testing established that the product won't just wash out after one wear.) So fingers crossed for a lower tox alternative with similar results, if you're considering this method!

The cost breakdown for this particular brand of spray looks like $28 for the can which is $4.66 each for 6 nappies which works out to 58c per wear if you get a couple of months out of them. So on the expensive end, compared with just using disposables instead - but still a handy tip to know, and potentially any other aerosol waterproofing spray on the market will work similarly and may be priced cheaper. Here's my process with a Silicone based waterproofing spray:

Step 1: turn pocket nappies inside out and hang so that you can easily spray the back side of the PUL, with no wrinkles or folds to obstruct an even application.

Step 2: hold can about 20-30cm from shell and spray in an even back and forth motion, ensuring that the fabric ends up evenly damp, not dripping.

Step 3: apply 2-3 coats to ensure all areas of the shell have been treated evenly.

Step 4: leave to dry, cure, and air out, on an outdoor line in the sun for 24-48 hours. Leave for longer or run through a wash cycle if the smell still bothers you.

Step 5: add shells into your nappy stash and use as a lay in shell, making sure to add a stay dry layer between the inserts and bubs skin.

So that's my three methods for re-water-proofing delaminated nappy shells! They all have the downside of making the "pocket" of the nappy unusable due to waterproofing the whole shell, inside and out, but more or less work out cheaper than disposables to continue using damaged shells that have already paid for themselves. In my opinion, they make great nappies for use around the house; at least at home I can deal with the occasional leak if one hasn't held its water resistance. They can be a little prone to flooding/overflowing - as the shells turn out SO water resistant, there's no opportunity for moisture to wick away, except for maybe the lanolin method - so if your absorbency isn't adequate, the urine just kind of overflows with nowhere else to go. But overall, the benefits outweigh the downsides for me, and I have a good stack of 'home' nappies made from recovered delaminated shells that I've acquired from various sources over the last couple of years!

If none of these methods appeal to you, here's some other uses for delaminated or loose elastic nappies:

- night nappies as per my night nappy set up (if the absorbency is right, the waterproofness of the shell isn't as important, and you'll get away with partially delaminated shells or one loose leg elastic)

- swim nappies (as long as the leg elastics are intact, swim nappies are only designed to contain poo, so as long as they will hold solids it doesn't matter that they let fluid through)

- Doll/teddy nappies for play

- nappy covers when using disposable, eg under a pretty dress I just use a nappy shell as a nappy cover if we happen to not be in cloth - as I rarely use a nappy cover when using cloth, they're too pretty to cover up!

Hopefully that's given you some tips to extend the life of your damaged nappy shells and keep them out of landfill for longer! If you want to know how to replace leg elastics, there are heaps of tutorials in other places on the internet, but if you can sew a little bit then you'll be able to replace leg elastics too!